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The Jalon Valley
A "must see" area for
anybody who has hired a car for their holiday on the cost
blanca, is the Jalon valley. Shortly after passing the
Calpe turn off heading North on the N332 there is a signpost
to Jalon (or Xalon in the Valencian dialect) on the left
hand side. Taking this road leads to a fertile valley
full of vineyards, almond trees and orange groves. The
landscape varies according to the time of year but it never
fails to impress. The first stop to make when driving
through the Jalon valley, is the town of Jalon itself.
Although not a very big deal when it comes to Spanish towns,
Jalon boasts what are probably the strongest local wines
in Spain.
The main road winds around
the town where there is a fairly large car parking area
opposite a row of shops and more importantly, bodegas!!
Entering a bodega the fumes from the wine hit you head
on. The huge barrels contain some of the most potent
wines you are ever likely to encounter 14% and 15% proof are
the norm. The wines are deceptively sweet but
after my first experience drinking them, I now only use them
for cooking. On our first visit, my wife and I
bought a 5litre container. Five litres a few
years back was the equivalent of about 2.5 euros.
On returning to our
apartment we sat on the balcony and drank three or was it
four? glasses each of the dark syrupy wine. The
time was about 2pm and the sun was hot. The next
thing I remember was that it was dark and my head hurt.
I checked my watch and it was 1am. The wine had the
effect of rendering us more or less unconscious for over ten
hours. Now don't get me wrong, there is nothing wrong
with these wines (which we now refer to as sleeping wine)
but they have to be treated with respect, much as a vicar
would treat a glass of sherry. No knocking back three
or four glasses, just sipping your way through one glass
over about half an hour is probably right. I've been
told (I don't know if this is correct but I think it
probably is) that French winemakers buy the Jalon
valley wine, to add to their own weaker wines in order to
fortify them.
Heading out of Jalon turn
left at the next t junction and follow the road as it snakes
it's way up into the mountains. The road is
winding but perfectly safe providing you aren't Jason
Button. At the top of one of the peaks turning right
onto a tyre shredding track there is a bar/restaurant.
This whitewashed building perches on the the mountain and
offers some of the best views to be had of the valley below.
Inside the atmosphere is that of a Swiss Chalet. You
can picture the jovial German owner in lederhosen, slapping
his knees as he fetches your coffee. At times you have
to remind yourself that you are still in Spain
and restrain the urge to issue a full throated yodel.
The mountain road leads
eventually to Callosa which is only about 10kms from
Benidorm. On the way it passes through a few small
villages, notably, Taberna ( Don't be tempted to drive into
Taberna unless your neck has the ability to turn 180 degrees
as you attempt to reverse out through winding side streets
lined with bemused locals) Taberna ( I have this on
good authority) is renowned for its Majorcan cuisine!!!
Yes that's right, Majorcan. Apparently a large group of
Majorcan folk made their way from the island of Majorca to
Taberna in the Jalon valley, opened restaurants and served
their secret recipes to the passing tourists. This
story is so bizarre, it must be true. |
