A "must see" area
for anybody who has hired a car for their holiday on the costa blanca,
is the Jalon valley. Shortly after passing the Calpe turn off
heading North on the N332 there is a signpost to Jalon (or Xalon in
the Valencian dialect) on the left hand side. Taking this road
leads to a fertile valley full of vineyards, almond trees and orange
groves. The landscape varies according to the time of year but it
never fails to impress. The first stop to make when driving
through the Jalon valley, is the town of Jalon itself. Although
not a very big deal when it comes to Spanish towns, Jalon boasts
what are probably the strongest local wines in Spain.
The main road winds
around the town where there is a fairly large car parking area
opposite a row of shops and more importantly, bodegas!!
Entering a bodega the fumes from the wine hit you head on.
The huge barrels contain some of the most potent wines you are ever
likely to encounter 14% and 15% proof are the norm. The
wines are deceptively sweet but after my first experience drinking
them, I now only use them for cooking. On our first visit,
my wife and I bought a 5litre container. Five litres a few
years back was the equivalent of about 2.5 euros.
On returning to our
apartment we sat on the balcony and drank three or was it four?
glasses each of the dark syrupy wine. The time was about
2pm and the sun was hot. The next thing I remember was
that it was dark and my head hurt. I checked my watch and it was
1am. The wine had the effect of rendering us more or less
unconscious for over ten hours. Now don't get me wrong, there is
nothing wrong with these wines (which we now refer to as sleeping
wine) but they have to be treated with respect, much as a vicar
would treat a glass of sherry. No knocking back three or four
glasses, just sipping your way through one glass over about half an
hour is probably right. I've been told (I don't know if this is
correct but I think it probably is) that French winemakers buy
the Jalon valley wine, to add to their own weaker wines in order to
fortify them.
Heading out of Jalon
turn left at the next t junction and follow the road as it snakes it's
way up into the mountains. The road is winding but
perfectly safe providing you aren't Jason Button. At the top of
one of the peaks turning right onto a tyre shredding track there is a
bar/restaurant. This whitewashed building perches on the the
mountain and offers some of the best views to be had of the valley
below. Inside the atmosphere is that of a Swiss Chalet.
You can picture the jovial German owner in lederhosen, slapping his
knees as he fetches your coffee. At times you have to remind
yourself that you are still in Spain and restrain the urge
to issue a full throated yodel.
TABERNA
The mountain road
leads eventually to Callosa which is only about 10kms from Benidorm.
On the way it passes through a few small villages, notably, Taberna (
Don't be tempted to drive into Taberna unless your neck has the
ability to turn 180 degrees as you attempt to reverse out through
winding side streets lined with bemused locals) Taberna ( I have
this on good authority) is renowned for its Majorcan cuisine!!!
Yes that's right, Majorcan. Apparently a large group of Majorcan folk
made their way from the island of Majorca to Taberna in the Jalon
valley, opened restaurants and served their secret recipes to the
passing tourists. This story is so bizarre, it must be true.
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